By about 2am I stopped my frantic search to find a way via public transport to Muir Woods and accepted that Angel Island would be my destination for later in the day. Sure, I wanted to go to see the Redwoods and hike through the Northern California forests, but the logistics just weren’t there, not without great financial and temporal expense. Sure, there was an element of disappointment in my heart, but also a contentment. I had tried and had found what seemed to be a fine alternative; besides, the menu for the day was rain and if it did, the closer to home the better. So, to bed I went, for less than six hours.
I got up, grabbed some tea, oatmeal and cereal, then packed my bag with a self-prepared lunch of San Fran sourdough, collards, tomato, and goat cheese, a rain coat (which was for wearing, not for eating) and out I went. I caught a bus to the Pier, picked up a ticket and took the day’s only ferry out to the largest island in SF Bay. It was 10am and the fog was out in force. The peaks of Sausalito and Marin could have been in the clouds a few thousand feet high the way they peeped above the mist. It turned the ride into an experience of grandeur and I was glad for getting out early and drawing my Food Conference, overfull self out to the shore. The boat passed Alcatraz on the way and I got a great view of about 200 degrees of the little Rock.
After only 20 minutes we landed. Everything was closed on the Island as its currently in the off season, but we were greeted by aranger who passed out a map, said “be careful”, pointed out the trails, and waved us off. I was glad for the timing. There was nobody there save for a handful of people that came out with me on the ferry and I was set on going to the top of Mt. Livermore, a mild peek with supposed spectacular views of the bay. The fog was well settled, and the ranger said the views might not be great but the Perimeter Trail, walking a loop around the Island, did not appeal to me. As a fellow hiker said today, “It’s not a hike unless its uphill”. I agree.
A trail is an experience. It’s as complete as a good movie and weaves a tale along the way. The story emerges as you go, there’s a climax, twists, and a full series of emotions that plays through one’s being. That said, it’s a different journey for each traveler. I was alone on the North Ridge path to the top on Mt. Livermore, a modest uphill of about 800 ft. over 2.5 miles. On my back was a Jansport with water, book, and food. In my heart was a desire to move. Unfortunately, in my legs was a stagnation. Uphills have a way of showing you the soft spots. But at least there is a goal. On the track or running around the park, there’s no destination. It’s somehow better when there’s a set mark and a set time – especially one that you didn’t set yourself on which an ax is waiting to fall. For example: Reach the peak, enjoy, go back down, get to the immigration station landmark on the other side of the island, get back to dock for the only boat back that day. Miss it, and pray that a cheese sandwich and a thin raincoat will make it for the night. Ready… go.
It took me a little while to get my wind going, but it came, and I let it come naturally. As I entered the trail I noticed a number of spiderwebs, glinting in the light ever so plainly from the fog condensed on the masterwork lattice. Weave a tale, weave a web, play a game. I remembered an awareness tool that I’d come upon a while back: Pick something, a color, a shape, a creature, a formation, anything. Make an effort to notice that thing as you go. It could even be a particular sound, leaves in the wind, a birdsong. As long as it’s something you enjoy. This is especially good on a trail to open you up to the now and paying attention to details. I picked spiderwebs. Good choice.

A web in the mist
They were brilliant! There were so many, and the moist air made it ever so much easier. There were fine abandoned standalones, clusters of tufts of silk, and lone strands grabbing a single leaf. The highlight, though not exact but close enough, was near the top. On a bush of sorts in a bit of a clearing were a score of caterpillars on various leaves, some together and others apart, covered by a sparse blanket of thread. It was not a cocoon in the typical sense, the covering was too thin and was easily seen through. The creatures were about an inch and a half, mostly black, with small red dots running along both sides of their mid-line. I stopped and started for a time. I did not disturb the scene more than one does by smelling a rose.
About fifteen minutes later I found myself at the top. There was a family there already. The father had carried his little boy in a… kiddy pack? and the mom and kids were there happily appreciating the view. On my arrival the dad noted that they’d been there for 45 minutes and I’d have the place to myself for a while. A nice guy, but he was rather proud of how easy the climb was, and how much he carried to get there. He was so nice though and the kids so cute that it was comical. It also meant that I need to get my hike on more often. I took my time and enjoyed, it didn’t feel that slow, they must have run.
After chatting for a few, the dad took my picture over the scene and suggested, I meditate for a short time. When he offered the advice, I asked, “How do you know I’m the type who meditates?” He said, “well, we prayed for a while,” and walked off leaving me to a view that would rival a Peter Jackson shot in New Zealand. The Bay was laid out before me in a full 360 panorama. The Bay Bridge held its masts, piercing through the fog like the bulwarks of a sky kingdom. Marin County was laid bare with its rolling hills in full view. Needless to say, the ranger at the bottom was wrong, the fog burned off and the view was spectacular. The hawks were at eye level. The air was crisp and the wind cutting, but manageable enough for some standing meditation. I was glad for it.

The Bay from Mt. Livermore
After a bite and a little writing, I made my way down. I came rather close to a young buck that popped out of nowhere (or was he obviously there and I just wasn’t paying attention?), found a fork, and went toward the immigration station. It was touching. The Island say about 1 million souls go through it, 1/30 of the amount that passed through Elis Island. There were many interesting feelings and micro experiences that passed through me at this point. From the examination of odd acorns, to the touch of ocean shore, to the aching knees and questions of why?, to appreciation and deep breaths, ideas of grandeur, climbs up walls, and the learning of a little history. Did you know that the European immigrants and the Asian immigrants were separated and treated very differently. I’ll leave the reader to guess at which groups and genders got the kindest treatment. Not least of all in my head was the time. I looked around the station, ate my sandwich, and got my pace on.
I got to the dock with enough time to sit for literally 2 minutes before the boat was ready to be boarded. I passed out on the ride back which got filled up by people and bikes on a stopover in a neighboring county before dropping us off on the Pier in San Fran.
I was tired, got a frozen yogurt, and walked along the Wharf to an old, old, style penny arcade – of course the machines were refitted to accept quarters. That was fun. I then walked most of the way back to my hostel, jumping on a cable car part of the way and getting off on a Chinatown side street. Slowly but surely I made it back. A worthy journey it was. Though I could have done without all that walking around the city after about 8-miles on the Island. I’m still learning the ropes of when I’ve had enough, and when I should push a little more.
It’ll bust me up a bit along the way, but I’ll learn. One step at a time, I’ll get better. It helps when there’s a hot meal waiting for you back at home, and there was, homemade by a hostel chef. Goodnight. :)